Oud: origin, price, and how to wear it
By Atyab
Oud is the most expensive and most misunderstood material in perfumery. It is described by turns as smelling of wood, leather, stable, or incense—and curiously, none of these descriptions are wrong.
Where does oud come from?
Oud, or agarwood, is no ordinary wood. It forms when a tree of the Aquilaria genus is infected by a fungus. To defend itself, the tree secretes a dark resin that permeates the wood. It is this resin, and this resin alone, that carries the scent.
Two direct consequences: only a few trees out of a hundred develop the resin, and the process takes years. Hence the price.
Why does it cost so much?
Natural scarcity, very low distillation yields, and global demand far exceeding supply. By the kilo, quality oud regularly exceeds the price of gold. This is the reason why almost all perfumes on the market, including the most prestigious ones, combine natural oud with synthetic reconstructions.
What does oud smell like?
It is not linear. Depending on the origin—Cambodia, India, Malaysia, Laos—and the treatment, it can be:
- woody and dry, close to smoked sandalwood;
- resinous, with an incense character;
- animalic, leathery, almost medicinal in the rawest ouds.
In modern Gulf perfumery, oud is almost always softened: saffron and fruits in the opening, amber and vanilla in the base. This is the case with Reef 33 — saffron, rosemary, oud — or Reef 33 White, which replaces rosemary with red berries.
How to wear an oud perfume
Use sparingly
One or two sprays are enough. Oud has exceptional longevity: what seems subtle to you upon application will be clearly perceived by those around you an hour later.
Spray on fabric
On clothing rather than on the skin, the hold is significantly longer and the animalic note is less harsh. This is, in fact, the traditional practice in the Gulf.
Avoid hot areas in summer
The neck and wrists amplify heavy materials. In hot weather, opt for the upper back or a spray on your clothing.
Three ouds to start with
- Reef 33 White — red berries, saffron, oud. The gentlest entry.
- Reef Obaiah Arabs — grapefruit, leather, oud. For those who love leather.
- Reef Diriyah — saffron, oud, tonka bean. The most classic of the three.
Our complete selection is grouped in the oud perfume collection.
Frequently asked questions
Is an oud perfume necessarily strong?
No. Many modern compositions use oud only as a base note to support a fruity or saffron opening. The sillage is then deep without being overwhelming.
Oud and sandalwood, what's the difference?
Sandalwood is creamy, milky, and soft. Oud is resinous, smoky, and sometimes animalic. They often complement each other in the same composition—see our woody perfumes.
Is oud suitable for women?
The question does not arise in Gulf perfumery, where oud is worn by everyone. Our oud perfumes are all unisex.
Want to try it? Discover the oud perfume collection.